Day 7: Newcastle to Woy Woy to Sydney

Newcastle to Woy Woy - Approximate Distance 85 KM (cycled)
Woy Woy to Sydney - Approximate Distance 42 KM (train)

The morning sky was overcast. Having had a safe and restful sleep, the latter, I am almost certain would not have occurred had I stayed with Jack and Jill, I made my way through the streets of Newcastle to the shoreline where I ate breakfast against a railing overlooking the Pacific.

The Pacific Coast Highway is now but a memory; the remainder of the journey will be spent traveling Highway 111 and rural main roads along the coast, where more often than not you are a few hundred meters from the water. Despite the spectacular ocean views, this route exposes me to severe weather and roads prone to flooding, particularly the area from Budgewoi to The Entrance where the road traverses small patches of land separating lakes from ocean.

From Newcastle to Doyalson, the weather was absolutely perfect for cycling – calm winds and cool temperature. Shortly after exiting Highway 111, I noticed a storm system moving across the ocean towards land, within minutes I was soaked. Despite being wet and having the weight my bike drastically increase, the rain was refreshing and fun. After an hour of cycling the rain intensified – strength and coldness of temperature. The storm created huge swells and I could see the waterline gradually progressing up the shore. It was to late to turn back, I was in the central region of the flood plains, and the only viable alternative was to move forward.

After a few hours the rain lessened to a moderate shower. Arriving in The Entrance with the intention of taking the Ettalong ferry to Palm Beach, I stopped at the visitor information centre for directions. I approached the desk shaking uncontrollably and unable to speak more than a few words without my teeth chattering. Although I was freezing cold, I could not help but find it amusing how often my teeth chattered.

“I… click, click, click…was wondering…click, click…where…click…I could catch the Ettalong ferry…click.click.click.

The lady behind the counter looked at me in a manner similar to a doctor on the verge of delivering bad news, “there is no ferry around here. The Ettalong ferry departs out of Woy Woy”, she stated. “I know, but it’s not much further”, I replied, “about a half-hour by car”, the woman responded. In disbelief I retrieved my maps from my bag, my hands paralyzed in the shape of a capital “C”, only to discover a glaring oversight, my maps had failed to mention that Woy Woy was roughly 50 KM south of The Entrance. The woman, obviously noticing my reluctance to rejoin the dreary conditions outside or spend $90 dollars for a budget accommodation recommended that I cycle 10 KM and catch a train to Woy Woy. Before leaving I changed into warmer clothes in the public restroom.

Upon arrival in Woy Woy, I cycled an additional 10 KM to the ferry station only to see a ferry traveling the opposite direction and a middle aged man fishing from the pier. I approached the man and asked if the boat in the distance was the ferry to Palm Beach, to which he replied, “Yes”. The next ferry was not due to arrive for another hour, add this to the length of the ferry ride and it would be dark on arrival in Palm Beach. After a brief conversation regarding the type of fish he was intending to catch, the man turns and says “I don’t think you should cycle that area with your load, the roads are quite narrow and many a cyclist has been late for dinner traveling that stretch”. As I made my way back to Woy Woy, I thought about what he said and decided to ride the train 42 KM to Sydney. Upon arrival in Sydney Murray, Sally’s cousin, met me.

Note: A few days after arriving in Sydney, Murray, Catherine (Murray’s wife) and I drove to Palm Beach for a day of sun and surf, I am thankful that I took the advice of the man fishing from the pier.