Day 4: Evans Head to Grafton

Approximate Distance: 168 KM

I left Evans Head around 6:30 AM, slightly tired due to mischievous kids wandering around the park in the early hours. While conversing with some people at dinner, I learned of a small airfield, just before the PCH, where kangaroos could often be seen. I awoke rather excited at the prospect of seeing a living kangaroo. I eventually reached the small airfield but was unable to locate any kangaroos. I continued cycling, keeping a watchful eye on the farmers field as I passed. All of a sudden I spotted a shape that seemed out-of-place amongst the low shrubs, it was two kangaroos. Although the animals were some distance away, it was still magnificent. I owe my ability to spot animals in the bush to the years of monotonous driving to and from Manitoulin Island, where one of the only sources of entertainment was deer spotting. I rejoined the PCH and headed towards Grafton.

Cycling for extended periods of time can result in serious health problems such as dehydration and/or a condition known as the “bonks”. The “bonks” occur when energy loss (exercise) does not equal energy intake (food). The “bonks” are the equivalent of driving your car on empty. Symptoms of depletion include general weakness, fatigue, and manifestations of hypoglycemia, such as dizziness and hallucinations. To avoid the “bonks” I continually snacked on foods high in carbohydrates. Each morning I would load my pockets with muesli bars, fasten digestive cookies to the handlebars, and strap fruit under my seat. By strategically storing food in easy to access locations I could cycle for hours without having to dismount.

On the topic of food, below is a listing of the food most commonly consumed throughout the trip. It may not seem appetizing, but it was high in carbohydrates.

Breakfast: Peanut Butter and Jam Sandwich and Fruit

Snacks: Digestive Cookies, Fruit, Muesli Bars and Rice Cakes

Dinner: Pasta, Beans and Canned Tuna

Luxury Items: Rice Pudding, Fresh Bakers Buns with Cheese

Fluid: 4 liters of Water and 2-4 liters of an Electrolyte Replacement Drink (Staminaide)

Using the maps I created prior to departing Brisbane, I had intended on cycling the PCH from Evans Head to Chatsworth. At Chatsworth I would exit the PCH and cycle 21 KM through Bundjalung National Park to the town of Illuka. From Illuka I would board the ferry to Yamba and cycle a series of national parks, eventually rejoining the PCH and ending in Grafton. Despite having a well-planned route, unforeseen circumstances would result in having traveled 42 KM for a ham and cheese bun.

I leisurely cycled the 21 KM route through Bundjalung National Park, arriving in Illuka around 10:20 AM. While cycling through town I was overcome by the smell of fresh baked bread and could not resist stopping for some freshly baked goods (ham and cheese buns). Having purchased my items, I made my way to the ferry terminal, a small dock behind a restaurant. I asked a waiter when the next ferry would leave and he pointed to the water and said, “ you just missed it, the next one isn’t until 1 PM”. In talking with the man, he explained how the town previously operated multiple ferries departing every half-hour, but low usage resulted in the service being scaled back. I now had an ultimatum: wait around 3 hours or cycle back to the PCH, I decided to I cycle. I stopped and asked an elderly man the best way to get back to the PCH. The man looked at me rather perplexed and replied “there is only one road in and out for Illuka and its through Bundjalung National Park”. In just over a half-hour I rejoined the PCH. The ham and cheese buns were delicious, but next time I’ll go somewhere a bit closer.

I arrived in Grafton around 3PM and located a place to stay on the outskirts of town. While setting up my tent I met a nice retired furniture maker. We talked for hours throughout the course of the evening. The most interesting part of our conversation was the stories he told of panning for gold in the waters around abandon mines. At one point he even produced two jars containing very small trace amounts of gold.

That night I awoke to sight and sound of approaching lightning. I immediately pulled all tent pegs and carried the tent into the covered outdoor kitchen. The concrete floor of the outdoor kitchen was surprisingly more comfortable than the grass.

Tomorrow I head for Macksville