Day 6: Macksville to Kundabung

Macksville to Kundabung - Approximate Distance: 85 KM

Well rested, I departed Macksville around 6 AM enroute to Port Macquarie. By 9:00 AM I had cycled approximately 80 KM and was starting to become tired, dizzy and agitated. Previous experience indicated that I was exhibiting the symptoms of heat stroke. This weather did not seem like a typical Australian winter, heat waves radiated from the road. As the temperature rose, I consumed more and more water, until eventually I was forced to ration the remaining amount.

I cycled a few more kilometers before noticing a sign for Kundabung rest area. For the next 4 KM I focused on the thought of replenishing my water and cooling down. I arrived at the rest area, throwing my bike to the ground, and headed for the tap, just then the unimaginable happened: No water available, awaiting repairs. Disappointed I made my way to a covered picnic area, where I immediately began to remove all excess/unnecessary layers of clothing. I used a portion of my remaining water to cool my temperature: pouring it on the back of my neck and splashing it under my arms. Resting in the shade, I referred to my maps and discovered that I was at least 50 KM from the nearest town in either direction. With my health in jeopardy I made the decision to hitch a ride to Taree. Although I was in desperate need of a ride, I maintained that I would not ask or accept rides where I felt uncomfortable.

I approached an RV, the only vehicle at the stop, and knocked on the door. Asking for a ride is both: awkward and self-imposing, I needed to position myself in a manner that was non-threatening and in a way that someone could not simply say “no” to, I needed them to sympathize with me.

I explained to the elderly man that I was a Canadian traveling via “push bike” and that I felt that the heat was becoming unbearable and making me ill. Question: If someone approached you at a rest area in the middle of nowhere during an immensely hot day and told you that they essentially needed assistance out of the situation, Could you say no? How would your conscience react? The man seemed willing to help but upon speaking to his wife he explained that they did not have enough seat belts nor did he think the bike would fit through the RV door. I walked back to the shaded picnic area; a few minutes later the man exited the RV with some cold bottles of water and offered to refill my bottles before leaving. While handing back my bottles, the man had a moment of hesitation; it was almost as if he wanted to say, “hop in”.

A few minutes later another vehicle arrived, this time towing a 5th wheel. As the woman went to the washroom I approached the man and explained my situation. The man seemed keen to help, but due to space limitations did not think it would be possible. While conversing, his wife returned and he explained my situation, I could tell that she was willing to help, but a little hesitant due to the spacing issue. In a last attempt I said, “I think my bike will fit through the door of your 5th wheel” to which the man replied, “if you can make it fit, you’ve got a ride”…

How will the story end? Part 2 to come in a week.

Day 5: Grafton to Macksville

Approximate Distance: 150 KM

I awoke to calm skies: the storm from last night, although brief, was extremely powerful. My retired friend was up at dawn to see me off. Last night we had discussed my route for the next day, a rural road called Orara Way, he figured that the journey would be fairly flat, as it ran parallel to the railroad.

Just beyond the Grafton city limits the bushes to my left began to bustle with movement.
I slowed down, almost to a standstill and began to look into the brush with some intensity. All of a sudden I spotted a brown object bouncing amongst the foliage, it was a kangaroo. I cycled a little further before I spotted another kangaroo, this time with a young Joey, standing alongside the road. I once again slowed, this time I wanted to take a picture and attempted to get as close a possible, unfortunately as I slowly rode towards the animals my front brakes produced a sharp screech and the both animals disappeared into the dense brush. For the next few hours I would cycle shoulder to shoulder alongside kangaroos, it was spectacular. At one point, as I cycled, a family of kangaroos bounced along the road. This was by far the most memorable part of the journey thus far. It would be hours before I saw another person (passing vehicle).

My friend was correct in his assumption that the road would start out fairly flat, however, the railway eventually tapered off and the road began to fluctuate. For the next 80 kms I would resort to the following: walk up the hill, ride down the other side (momentum would carry me halfway up next), immediately walk up the next. I reached the small town of Glenreagh, exhausted, where I stopped for some much deserved fruit and orange juice. While in the store, of which the town had only 3, I started a conversation with a local man and he informed me that the road from Glenreagh to Coffs Harbour would not be as hilly. The problem with asking locals their opinion regarding terrain or distance is that they base it on driving, not cycling. The road was slightly less hilly but the difference was minute.

I eventually reached Coffs Harbour and decided to rest for an hour. Having reenergized I setoff for Macksville via the PCH. I arrived in Macksville around 3PM and rented a room above a shady pub, known as a “pub stay”. I spent the night gorging on sandwiches, beans, rice pudding, fruit, muesli bars and water.

Tomorrow I head towards Port Macquarie.

Day 4: Evans Head to Grafton

Approximate Distance: 168 KM

I left Evans Head around 6:30 AM, slightly tired due to mischievous kids wandering around the park in the early hours. While conversing with some people at dinner, I learned of a small airfield, just before the PCH, where kangaroos could often be seen. I awoke rather excited at the prospect of seeing a living kangaroo. I eventually reached the small airfield but was unable to locate any kangaroos. I continued cycling, keeping a watchful eye on the farmers field as I passed. All of a sudden I spotted a shape that seemed out-of-place amongst the low shrubs, it was two kangaroos. Although the animals were some distance away, it was still magnificent. I owe my ability to spot animals in the bush to the years of monotonous driving to and from Manitoulin Island, where one of the only sources of entertainment was deer spotting. I rejoined the PCH and headed towards Grafton.

Cycling for extended periods of time can result in serious health problems such as dehydration and/or a condition known as the “bonks”. The “bonks” occur when energy loss (exercise) does not equal energy intake (food). The “bonks” are the equivalent of driving your car on empty. Symptoms of depletion include general weakness, fatigue, and manifestations of hypoglycemia, such as dizziness and hallucinations. To avoid the “bonks” I continually snacked on foods high in carbohydrates. Each morning I would load my pockets with muesli bars, fasten digestive cookies to the handlebars, and strap fruit under my seat. By strategically storing food in easy to access locations I could cycle for hours without having to dismount.

On the topic of food, below is a listing of the food most commonly consumed throughout the trip. It may not seem appetizing, but it was high in carbohydrates.

Breakfast: Peanut Butter and Jam Sandwich and Fruit

Snacks: Digestive Cookies, Fruit, Muesli Bars and Rice Cakes

Dinner: Pasta, Beans and Canned Tuna

Luxury Items: Rice Pudding, Fresh Bakers Buns with Cheese

Fluid: 4 liters of Water and 2-4 liters of an Electrolyte Replacement Drink (Staminaide)

Using the maps I created prior to departing Brisbane, I had intended on cycling the PCH from Evans Head to Chatsworth. At Chatsworth I would exit the PCH and cycle 21 KM through Bundjalung National Park to the town of Illuka. From Illuka I would board the ferry to Yamba and cycle a series of national parks, eventually rejoining the PCH and ending in Grafton. Despite having a well-planned route, unforeseen circumstances would result in having traveled 42 KM for a ham and cheese bun.

I leisurely cycled the 21 KM route through Bundjalung National Park, arriving in Illuka around 10:20 AM. While cycling through town I was overcome by the smell of fresh baked bread and could not resist stopping for some freshly baked goods (ham and cheese buns). Having purchased my items, I made my way to the ferry terminal, a small dock behind a restaurant. I asked a waiter when the next ferry would leave and he pointed to the water and said, “ you just missed it, the next one isn’t until 1 PM”. In talking with the man, he explained how the town previously operated multiple ferries departing every half-hour, but low usage resulted in the service being scaled back. I now had an ultimatum: wait around 3 hours or cycle back to the PCH, I decided to I cycle. I stopped and asked an elderly man the best way to get back to the PCH. The man looked at me rather perplexed and replied “there is only one road in and out for Illuka and its through Bundjalung National Park”. In just over a half-hour I rejoined the PCH. The ham and cheese buns were delicious, but next time I’ll go somewhere a bit closer.

I arrived in Grafton around 3PM and located a place to stay on the outskirts of town. While setting up my tent I met a nice retired furniture maker. We talked for hours throughout the course of the evening. The most interesting part of our conversation was the stories he told of panning for gold in the waters around abandon mines. At one point he even produced two jars containing very small trace amounts of gold.

That night I awoke to sight and sound of approaching lightning. I immediately pulled all tent pegs and carried the tent into the covered outdoor kitchen. The concrete floor of the outdoor kitchen was surprisingly more comfortable than the grass.

Tomorrow I head for Macksville

Day 3: Strokers Siding to Evans Head

Approximate Distance: 150 Km


I awoke just before dawn, slightly sore from the previous day, packed my equipment and headed off towards Byron Bay. As I made my way along the meandering valley roads, I had a moment of dreamlike tranquility. For a brief instance I felt as if I had found “Shangri-La” – a utopia that exists hidden from modern man. Aside from the fantastic views, cycling at dawn increases the probability of seeing nocturnal Australian fauna such as Kangaroos and Koalas as well as allowing me to complete a large number of kilometers before the temperature dramatically rises.

Eventually the rural roads ended and I ventured onto the Pacific Coast Highway. The PCH had a designated cycling lane, which helped to ease the nerves as vehicles sped by. Aside from a few passing cars and pastures filled with cattle, the PCH is desolate between towns, often resulting in oneself having to create entertainment. Once I have found my “stroke” or “rhythm” I often drift into long periods of thought, often about the most ridiculous topics. Typically I would start with a general question such as: If I were a Superhero what would my powers be? This initial question would then lead into a myriad of other questions such as: Who is my archenemy? What is their super-power? What would it be like to be friends with a Superhero such as Batman? Would Batman and Batgirl ever hook up? This would continue until one of the following happened: 1) Lost my “stroke” 2) Became distracted 3) The current thought lead into another line of thinking. If not lost in thought I would be singing as loud as possible. The country is the ideal place for bad singers to let loose.

While cycling, the sun on my back and therefore projecting my shadow ahead of me, I noticed an unusual image hovering above my head, it was a Magpie. It seems the eyes I had fashioned to my helmet were indeed working to repel the Magpies. I successfully thwarted an attack, no longer would I be an unsuspecting victim, or so I would believe. About an hour after I saw the ominous shadow, I had fallen deep into thought when a screeching black object grazed my cheek. Startled by the attack I let out high pitch scream and narrowly avoided swerving onto the PCH. As I regained control of the bike, the bird swooped from the other side. Scared, I pedaled faster; this seems to have only further provoked the bird. Only after I repeatedly swung and screamed at the bird did it fly away. Knowing I was once again safe I stopped and broke into hysterical laughter.

Kangaroos Everywhere!!! The 20 KM road between PCH and Evans Head was littered with the bodies of dozens of kangaroos. It was during this stretch of road that I became aware of the detrimental effects deforestation has on an eco-system. Hopefully by the end of the journey I will see live Kangaroos. On a lighter note, I spotted the following snake (appears to be a boa constrictor) in a tree while searching for Koalas.

I arrived in Evans Head around 3 PM and would spend the night at the Silver Sands Caravan Park. The park was packed with vacationing Queenslanders. After setting up my tent, I explored town and walked the beach. That evening while making dinner at the communal BBQ’s I was approached by a lady and her husband who asked, “Are you the young fellow on the bicycle?” I replied, “Yes”. The lady then began to explain how they had passed me on the PCH outside of Ballina that morning. She mentioned that her grandkids were excited to see someone traveling via bicycle and that she saw me pull into the Silver Sands while they were checking in. After a brief conversation she left and came back a few minutes later with her grandkids. It was fun talking with their family while making dinner. The grandkids had a lot of questions, which I was more than happy to answer.


Through our conversation the topic of Magpies arose and her husband informed me that during this season (nesting) the male and female stick close together. If I happen to see two Magpies fly off in different directions, the female will fly to the nest and the male will fly to a nearby tree and prepare to swoop the intruder. With this information I was even more prepared to “fight the war on terror”.

As the sun set, something amazing happened, the trees along the beach came alive. Within minutes the orange sky was filled with hundreds, if not, thousands of fruit bats.

Tomorrow I head for Grafton.




Pig running down the side of the road.

Day 2: Surfers Paradise to Murwillumbah to Strokers Siding

Approximate Distance 75 km


As I reviewed my maps over breakfast I noticed that the ride to Murwillumbah was only 50 kilometers, relatively light in comparison to the days to come. Side Note: Terrain is positively correlated to the time it takes to travel a set distance. Therefore it takes less time to travel 10 kilometers on a flat road than it would to travel 10 kilometers on a mountainous one - assuming an equal rate of speed. Unfortunately, I neglected to investigate the type of terrain I would be traveling through; this oversight would prove to be detrimental.

I spent part of the morning leisurely cycling along the coast and enjoying the scenery. The streets were quiet and the beaches relatively empty except for a few surfers and the grooming machine. The conditions for cycling were superb: limited wind and slight cloud cover. After a few hours I turned inland. The view of the ocean faded away and was replaced with that of sugar cane and banana plantations. Entering into West Burleigh the road began to incline sharply, it was at this point that I realized that it was not going to be an easy 50 km ride. As I cycled, the road continued to incline and incline. After an hour of unrelenting incline I knew that this was much bigger than just a hill. I struggled for another 3-4 hours and not once did the road slightly decline.

Today I will cross the border into New South Wales. As I approached the border a number of signs started to appear relating to the fines and penalties imposed for not disposing of fruits or vegetables obtained outside of New South Wales. Based on the number of signs and the severity of penalties I imagined a stringent inspection area. Arriving at the border I noticed that the only form of enforcement was a wooden box to place illegal items. The box appeared to be multi-purpose 1) food inspection officer 2) dividing line between states.

Making my way through the meandering roads I finally crested the hill. Not seeing many cars on the way up I knew the ride down was going to be immensely fun. I quickly checked my brakes and setoff. I traveled at approximately 60-70 kms an hour downhill for over 20 minutes.

I arrived in Murwillumbah quite “puffed” (an Australian term for tired) and made a meal on a park bench. Having reenergized I now set about finding accommodation. I entered the Visitor’s Information centre and was shown a pamphlet for a place called Hosanna’s. Hosanna’s is a farm retreat under construction in the town of Stokers Siding – blink and you miss it. The lady at the Information centre was quite impressed that I had arrived in Murwillumbah via “push bike”. When she inquired about the route I had taken, I was only able to tell her the road I used. The lady immediately pulled out a map and traced out my directions. When finished she looked up at me in amazement, came out from behind the counter and said the following: “ I need to shake your hand, I don’t think you realize the difficulty in what you have just accomplished”. As it turned out I had just cycled Mt. Tomewin (elevation roughly 1500 feet), the remnants of the Mt. Warning Shield Volcano and the incline I struggled with for hours had lasted over 25 kms.

“20 million years ago Mount Warning was the central vent of a large shield volcano with an area of over 4,000 square kilometers. It reached from Coraki in the south to Beenleigh in the north; westward to Kyogle and to the east its remnants occur as reefs in the Pacific Ocean. It originally reached nearly twice its present height.

Erosion over the millennia produced a unique and curious landform - the erosion caldera (“cauldron-like volcanic feature formed by the collapse of land following a volcanic eruption” – Wikipedia), which today is called the Tweed Valley. Mount Warning was the ancient volcano’s magma chamber. Being composed of harder rocks, which cooled underground, this massif (“section of a planet's crust that is separated by faults or flexures. In the movement of the crust, a massif tends to retain its internal structure while being displaced as a whole”- Wikipedia) resisted the forces which carved the surrounding erosion caldera down to bedrock. It stands as the dominant feature in the district’s landscape, and catches the first rays of the rising sun on the continent.”- Tweed Tourism

I came up the road by Currumbin - Road is in white

I finally located Hosanna’s; a wrong turn resulted in cycling 10 kms in an alternate direction. I pitched my tent, enjoyed a meal and was asleep by 7 PM.

Day 1: Brisbane to Surfers Paradise

Note to All Readers: I am not the type of person to take a lot of pictures. I would much rather enjoy the experience of my surroundings than reach for the camera.


Preparation:
I had intended on using the maps provided in “Cycling Australia” by Lonely Planet but book was designed with the intention of cycling north from Melbourne to Brisbane, unfortunately I was traveling south. I converted a few of the maps from northern to southern directions, but in the end decided to mostly follow the Pacific Coast Highway to Sydney.



Day 1: Brisbane to Surfers Paradise

Approximate Distance: 100 KM (Train)
Approximate Distance: 25 KM (Cycled)

As luck would have it, Alex, an old friend from Windsor was currently residing in a suburb just outside the central business district in Surfers Paradise, 100km outside of Brisbane and my intended first stop. Alex was coming to Brisbane on September 16th and it was agreed that instead of navigating a myriad of residential roads and having to fight Brisbane traffic I would take the train back to Surfers Paradise with her and start the journey from there.

Surfers Paradise – ironically is the “glitz capital of Australia’s beach resorts”. With the high number of tourists infiltrating the waters daily, this is hardly the ideal “Surfers Paradise”. Perhaps the city should amend its name to read: Surfers Paradise – A Beginners Perspective. Surfers Paradise boasts beautifully manicured beaches and picturesque views of the divide between nature and industrialization.

Alex and I arrived at Helensvale station and were walking to her car when a Magpie viciously attacked me. “For most of the year magpies are not aggressive, but for four to six weeks during nesting they will often defend their territory vigorously. People walking past may be seen as 'invaders' of the territory, prompting the magpies to fly low and fast over the person clacking their bills as they pass overhead.” This is an excerpt from the New South Wales Environment and Climate Change website. The excerpt mentions that these birds fly low, low is an understatement. These birds fly within inches of your face and are known for clipping ears and pecking the back of heads. Magpies will only attack from the back therefore making it difficult to anticipate an attack.

To make matters worse both my helmet and gloves are black and white, which is same colour as the magpie. Understandably I did look like a giant magpie and it was the start of nesting season. After enduring a few 100 meter attack we reached Alex’s car and I placed my bags inside, unfortunately due to lack of space I had to ride my bike 25 KM to her house. Before I got 10 meters from her car I was attacked again, this time the bird chased and attacked me for a solid kilometer. By the time I had reached her house my nerves were shot as 4 additional birds had attacked me.

Not wanting to be continually attacked I discovered a possible solution online that suggested I draw eyes on the back of my head. Here is the final product:





Alex and I spent the afternoon walking the beach. It was really nice to catch up with her.




The next morning I loaded my bike and began the journey to Murwillumbah through the caldera of the Mt. Warning Shield Volcano.

New Posts to Come Shortly

Mission Accomplished!! 1000 kms in 8 days. I am currently organizing my notes and will have the first update in a few days.